Thinking about going to 40" rows, is it a mistake?

treekiller · Wasn't Born Yesterday

Thinking about going to 40" rows, is it a mistake?

jdtom · Old Timer

Depending on where they put the hinges on your current 8-38" planter, you may be able to respace that planter for 8-40" rows. Otherwise, converting a 8-30" planter to 6-40" rows should work just fine, as long as it's a straight bar planter (no hinges for folding). It doesn't work to convert any folding planter from 38-40" rows to 30" - the hinges will be in the wrong place every time. Or if you can find one, get a 6RW planter - should be a lot cheaper than buying an 8-30" planter. That's one of the "perks" of using wide-row equipment - not much interest in it anymore so you can usually pick it up very reasonably.

Seeing as you are located in Iowa, I would kick that population up into the mid to upper 20,000's, unless you are in some marginal ground.

Yes, you will probably give up a little yield, but for the few acres you seem to be talking about it shouldn't make that much difference. And there will probably be some years where there is very little if any difference. And the fun you will have using you vintage equipment is priceless!

treekiller · Wasn't Born Yesterday

Thanks!

I went out to the shed today with a tape measure and the 8-38" planter should convert fairly easily by sliding the row units over and taking off the outside 2. The only thing would be getting the markers the right length, but we have an extra pair from an 8-30" planter(we combined 2 to make a 15-15" row bean planter) that could be shortened up so I wouldn't need to cut down the frame.

I would need to re-calibrate the population for the change to 6 rows, but that shouldn't be insurmountable.....

pickertim · Wasn't Born Yesterday

What kind of mounted picker do you have? I would guess that if you are going to pick with a 2 row mounted picker then just stay on the 38 s. I am guessing with the 20 inch row head he could still go slow and pick it all if neccessary. You dont have to be dead on the rows to do a good job. I know my neighbor planted and picked 36" rows. Let your soil type and fertility determine the planting population.Kind of like a friend of mine when he went to narrow rows changed the nozzles on his sprayer down to 30 inch rows and he broadbanded. lol Didnt hit him until too late he had wasted a lot of time for nothing. lol But we all have done stuff like that. i would just keep the every thing the same> No use spending time and money when it would be better spent else where like maybe buying another field or two.=)

treekiller · Wasn't Born Yesterday

I do not have a mounted picker. My field is odd-shaped and gently rolling, so being able to follow planter rows is important. The tenant will spray it when he sprays his own, they spray cross-rows to minimize running down corn(kinda hard to drive in-row with 20" rows.)

Since this is family land, I need to keep it as profitable as possible & well managed in order to keep the peace. The equipment is already available, but my picker isn't necessarily ready to take on 200+ bu corn without a back up plan.

pickertim · Wasn't Born Yesterday

Yeh I understand keeping the peace! lolI worked for a larger farmer them did my own with my equipment if all possible. But if getting pushed to get his fall plowing ,etc we went ahead and did it with his. Much preferred being able to wait till my soil was right and take my time.As long as there isnt a drought or real dry spell the higher populations should be better for yield.Soil, heat,water fertility